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Repair vs replace after ignition parts still fail

When batteries, electrode, and module have all been replaced and the grill still will not light, the next spend is gas-train, firebox rail, or a new cart.

moderate PT40M Updated 2026-08-30

Repair versus replace flowchart If the firebox is rusted through, replace. If you need three or more part classes this season, replace. If the manifold or cabinet is fire-damaged, replace. Otherwise repair that one part. START · THREE QUESTIONS 1. Floor or lid rusted THROUGH? Daylight? Screwdriver through scale? If yes, the box is done. Stop buying parts. YES → REPLACE Browse a new grill NO ↓ Go to question 2 2. Need 3+ part classes this season? Burners + plates + igniter / regulator One class is a repair. A stack is a new cart. YES → REPLACE Browse a new grill NO ↓ Go to question 3 3. Manifold / cabinet fire-damaged? Blistered paint, melted knobs, heat-soft valves YES → REPLACE Browse a new grill NO → REPAIR Fix that one part. Use the finder. Stop here.
Repair vs replace — if the box is done, stop buying parts.
Igniter electrode gap at a burner port Ceramic insulator, metal tip aimed at a burner port. Spark gap about the thickness of a nickel. SIDE VIEW · ELECTRODE GAP burner tube ports ceramic lead tip spark gap ≈ nickel ~1.8–2.1 mm to a port Tip aims at a port, not the tube wall. Cracked ceramic = replace.
Fig. — Electrode: ceramic, tip, burner port, ~nickel gap.

Ignition parts are cheap one at a time and expensive as a story: batteries, then a ceramic, then a module, then a “universal” kit that does not fit the rail. This page is the stop rule.

Control test

  1. Lid open. Tank on. New spark parts installed.
  2. Click the igniter and listen/look for spark at a port.
  3. Then use a long stick lighter at the ports (not at the hose).
  4. Read the flame, not the click:

When the rail is the part

Pellet exception

Stack rule

Use the replacement-grill search above if you decided the cart is done.