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fix · Nexgrill

Replace Nexgrill burner tubes

Pin-mounted 720-series tubes: match length, swallow the orifice, refit the carryover, leak-check. Short universal kits cause flashback.

moderate PT2H 720-0830H720-0888720-0896 Updated 2026-08-30

Search this job (no invented ASINs): BBQGuys · Amazon

Clean versus clogged burner ports Left tube shows even open ports and a blue flame sketch. Right tube shows grease-clogged ports and a yellow uneven flame. BURNER TUBE · PORTS CLEAN Even blue cones. Every port open. CLOGGED Grease in the holes. Yellow, lift, dead spots. Ream with a bit smaller than the port. Do not drill oversized. Brass brush the row. Keep liquid out of the venturi / inlet. If the tube wall is lace under the ports, replace the set — do not patch holes.
Fig. — Burner tube: clean ports (left) versus clogged ports (right).
Top-down gas firebox layers Cooking grates on top, inverted-V flavorizer bars over the burner tubes, electrode at the left tube. TOP DOWN · GAS FIREBOX 1 cooking grates 2 flavorizer bars 3 burner tubes + ports 4 electrode (left tube) LAYERS (top → bottom) 1 Grates — food sits here 2 Flavorizer / heat tents 3 Burner tubes + ports 4 Electrode at left port Lift grates, then tents, to reach tubes. Gas off.
Fig. — Firebox, top down: grates, flavorizer bars, burner tubes, electrode.

Nexgrill 720-series main burners are usually stamped tubes that slide onto brass valve orifices at the front and pin at the rear. They rust when tents fail. They also slide off the orifices when the cart is dragged by the lid or when a pin walks out. Both look like a dead grill.

Not affiliated with Nexgrill Industries.

Shop with the 720 number, not “4-burner”

Safety

Procedure

  1. Photograph tubes, pins, electrode, and any carryover notches or crossover. 720 carts vary; your photo is the assembly manual.
  2. Grates and tents out. Move the electrode if it blocks the left tube — pull the lead at the module, do not snap the ceramic.
  3. Straighten the cotter pins and pull them. Keep one as a pattern. Have spares.
  4. Lift the rear of each tube and slide the inlet off the orifice. If rust-welded, twist the tube, do not lever the valve.
  5. Hold old tubes to the sky. Extra pinholes, split seams, crumbled inlets: scrap. A packed dauber nest you cannot extract whole means that tube is scrap even if the top looks fine.
  6. Dry-fit the new set one at a time. Inlet must fully swallow the brass. Pin hole must line up without stretching. If the hole lands a half inch back, stop — wrong kit.
  7. Pin the rears. Bend the cotter enough that vibration will not walk it out.
  8. Refit the electrode and set a nickel gap. Seat tents over the port rows.
  9. Tank on slowly. Soap-and-water the tank coupling. Lid open. Light each main, then the side burner. Even blue rows. A roaring jet at the front shutter is a tube not on the orifice — shut down, reseat.

After the first heat cycle

Stack math